Travel Guide
Girona, Spain
Welcome to my (relatively new) home! With a population of just 100,000, Girona (in my opinion) is one of Spain’s hidden gems. Located only 40 minutes by train north of Barcelona, Girona is packed to the brim with countless food options, great shopping, amazing medieval architecture (think Game of Thrones) and a coffee/fitness culture second to none. It’s no wonder this city is one of my favourite places to visit in Europe and there’s a reason why I (and so many others) are flocking back.
Not to mention, this town has been a popular training hub for many professional athletes including runners and cyclists alike, meaning you’ll feel right at home with other ex-pats and travellers, without feeling the ‘commercial tourist ick’ that some popular cities have.
Like the weather, the warmth of the Catalan/Spanish people captivates many tourists, including myself. If you’re thinking of visiting this wonderful city, please see my tips on the best places in Girona to eat, drink and see.
Quick Travel Facts:
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They use Euros (€) as the primary currency in Girona.
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While the primary language is Catalan, locals often speak a combination of either Spanish, French, or English.
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I’ve visited Girona a couple of times now and prefer the off-peak times. I’ve visited in May, 2022 & Nov, 2022 and in my opinion, Apr - Jun would be the perfect time before the busy Summer period (Jul/Aug).
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Girona is lucky to have various festivals throughout the year. While these times will definitely make the city busier, it’s important to note if you’ll be travelling during these times as accomodation may be more expensive/in demand.
Some key festivals/dates to note:
Sant Jordi - April 23 (just one day, but it’s equivalent to Valentine’s Day)
Temps de Flors - second week of May (runs for 1 week and is a huge flower festival covering the town with flower installations and exhibitions)
Fiestas de Sant Narcís - October through to November (various events and activities are carried out including the famous Correfoc fire parade, Castellers human tower and many more.)
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There are a few ways you can travel from Barcelona to Girona; by train, bus or taxi.
By Train:
Most international tourists will arrive by plane, so from Barcelona-El Prat airport you will need to catch a bus to Barcelona Sants train station, and then catch another train from Barcelona Sants to Girona. There are various tickets you can buy however this is probably the cheapest option. I like to pre-book my tickets on the fast, Renfe train via the Trainline App.
By Taxi, Transfer or Car:
Taxis can be unreliable and difficult to navigate and many won’t take you from Barcelona to Girona (about 1.5 hours by car). So the best way I have found is to pre-book a transfer service. You can find out more info about the service I recommend here, or alternatively, you can contact Toni on WhatsApp on +34 680 24 25 98. This is perfect for cyclists, families or those with more luggage who don’t want to navigate public transport.
Where to eat + drink:
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Idle Hands is a restaurant/cafe offering a smaller menu of delicious food, plus coffee, beer and wine. A super cool vibe with a record player and very friendly staff.
There's plenty of seating both indoor for a more formal setting, by the counter (for a casual coffee) or outdoor. The coffee is delicious and there's also a selection of bakery items (croissants, pastries etc) available.
The owners are from Belgium and the UK and have renovated the space nicely to have a cosy, but upmarket feel.
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Wine bar with tapas. Specialises in natural wines from the region. If you're a local, this is where you go! Indoor and outdoor seating with a great vibe.
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Set in a cute courtyard, SAFO offers a unique range of plates to share as well as a nice range of wines and drinks.
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If you’re looking for a local’s recommendation for dinner or lunch, 8de7 is it. Offering an affordable menu with drinks, you’ll want to book in advance during busy periods as seating is limited ad it’s often booked out for the day. You’ll also see that the earliest dinner reservation starts at a typical 9pm (no earlier) — so make sure to save up an appetite!
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It doesn't look like much, but it has delicious food. You can choose the a la carte menu or set menu - choose a la carte and get the warm goats cheese salad! 🤤 They also have a range of drinks and indoor/outdoor seating. Casual vibe, reasonably prices and delicious food!
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You will likely want to book in advance as this place is often packed! Not huge portions but the fruit and nut salad was DELICIOUS as a starter. I had the pork belly as a main. More of an upmarket restaurant vibe in an intimate setting.
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Set right next to Idle Hands and SAFO Bar, Bestia also offers alfresco or indoor dining. A selection of drinks, wine and cocktails, as well as a tasty menu to share or just for yourself.
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Best fresh empanadas in Girona and right near Espresso Mafia. It's takeaway only, but cheap and delicious!
Best cafes:
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This is my local cafe when I visit Girona. It’s a very small boutique espresso bar/cafe with amazing cakes/sweets (also vegan) made fresh and locally. The owners, Nora and Jannick, are super friendly and speak Spanish, Catalan, English and German. They also offer batch brew and V60 coffee if that's your thing. They also sell art, along with some local wine, post cards, cups etc. and also have a bathroom in the cafe.
Spain have a coffee called a "cortado" or "Tallat" which is 50% coffee, 50% milk and is specific to Spain which you can try here. If you want to try something different, ask for their “olive latte.”
Keep in mind seating is limited, so you may need to get a takeaway, or sit outside.
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Idle Hands is a restaurant/cafe offering a smaller menu of delicious food, plus coffee, beer and wine. A super cool vibe with a record player and very friendly staff.
There's plenty of seating both indoor for a more formal setting, by the counter (for a casual coffee) or outdoor. The coffee is delicious and there's also a selection of bakery items (croissants, pastries etc) available.
The owners are from Belgium and the UK and have renovated the space nicely to have a cosy, but upmarket feel.
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La Comuna is a nice spot on the outskirts of old town and offers a range of hot/cold beverages and an extensive brunch/lunch menu too. The also have a yoga/pilates studio inside (Exhalar Studio) and a retail cycling store next door.
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Mainly coffee with small cakes. Owned by the same people as La Fabrica. Indoor and outdoor seating under cover, with a bathroom inside too. Open until late too (9am-8pm every day).
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Breakfast + coffee as well as juices etc. Owned by the same people as Espresso Mafia. Cycling inspired cafe with bike locks, indoor and outdoor seating and fresh produce. Coffee is good and also open 9-5pm everyday. Bathroom inside.
Top things to see + do:
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Also known as “Pont de les Peixateries Velles” and the “Eiffel Bridge” this bridge was famously built by Mr Eiffel (and his company) before the Eiffel Tower in Paris (1877).
It crosses the River Onyar where you'll see ducks and maybe sometimes 'river rats' or ‘nutria’ which look like a cross between an otter and a large rat.
The bridge, meaning "old fishmongers" was a breakthrough for the city, as it connected the old and new city and symbolised its unity.
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A nice park where the old city walls are. You can walk along the walls and see views of Girona. Cool architecture around that area too.
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If you’re walking around in Girona, no doubt you’ll walk past this cathedral. It’s a pretty impressive church with lots of stairs and was actually a location used in the series, Game of Thrones.
In the series, these stairs were used as the exterior for the Great Sept of Baelor in King's Landing, where Jaime Lannister has a showdown with the High Sparrow. There are also other parts of Girona which were filmed as a part of the show, including Banys Àrabs.
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Pretty park that makes for a nice walk. Tuesdays and Saturdays are market days with stalls selling clothes, handicrafts and food products.
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If you’re looking for a nice nature walk or run, I recommend coming here. There’s loads of trails by the river and it’s also relatively flat and a mixture between paths and smooth dirt trail.
Notes + Traveller’s Tips
If this is your first time visiting Girona or Spain, you may want to hear my top traveller’s tips. These are things I’ve learnt along the way which I hope can help you travel with ease, and avoid my mistakes. Again, these are just some of the things I noticed/experienced — they’re definitely not intended to be an over-generalisation of the country/city/the people or their culture.
Catalan, Spanish or French? Whenever I visit a new city, I try to Google translate a few useful words so I can at least attempt the basics. However it’s important to note that while Girona IS located in Spain, the locals primarily speak Catalan — this is because it’s also located in a region called Catalonia. The language is similar in some ways to Spanish but it’s also different enough to be confusing. For example, “adiós” is Spanish for “goodbye” and pronounced “ah-dee-oh-ss”. But in Catalan, they say “adéu”, pronounced “ah-day-oh”. Girona is also close to the French border, so you may also hear some French thrown in there. If you’re interested, there’s a whole political history around Spain, France and Catalonia which you can read up about.
Walkable city - Girona’s old town is a walkable (or ridable) city. I would advise staying somewhere in the old town for this reason, because buses are infrequent, and also there are no internal city trains/trams/metro. I also wouldn’t advise having a car, because parking is at a premium. However you can also hire a car from the main train station if you plan to travel out of Girona to visit the coast or other cities.
The city of cyclists - Girona is known by many as the hub or one of the “meccas“ of cycling. It’s close to popular cycling routes (check out Strava), the coast and other beautiful scenery. Coffee shops are everywhere and you can even get a coffee until 8pm most nights. If you’re not into cycling/running, there are various gyms (see my Google Map guide) as well as yoga and pilates studios to keep you feeling happy and healthy during your holiday.
Siesta + business trading hours - Who doesn’t love a good afternoon nap?! In Girona, siesta is common, however it’s not enforced or upheld by all shops. Siesta hours in Spain are usually between 2 and 5 pm, meaning many retail shops and restaurants will close and reopen again in the evening. Trading hours are usually from 10-2pm, then 5-9pm (or later).
Midnight snack or just dinner? If you haven’t adjusted to the time difference, don’t worry. In Spain, dinner usually starts around 9-10pm with restaurants open until midnight (or later). But if you are hungry at 6pm, you can still get a bite to eat at many places and luckily for you, it will probably be quiet.
Taxis - Ah yes, the taxis. There’s no Uber or taxi service the last time I checked. And even if you book a taxi online, do not expect it to rock up. There are definitely taxis at the train station, however if you’re staying out of the city centre, some drivers will just flat out deny driving you. So be prepared to walk. I learnt this the hard way! Your accomodation may be able to organise a driver for you if you need to get to the train station, otherwise leave extra time and maybe take the bus. Alternatively, if you need to organise a transfer from Barcelona to Girona, you can check out this service here.
Wine and dine - You’ll be spoilt for choice when it comes to food and restaurants here in Girona. The city has several Michelin Star restaurants attracting those who truly appreciate their culinary experiences. But if you’re looking for more of a relaxed vibe, cheaper food, Spanish tapas or even a good ‘ol pub, you’ll find it all here in Girona.
